Equipment needed

  • Fender list and anodized aluminium rail (optional).
  • Boiler w/water (kettle, oil drum or similar) and a heating element.
  • A drill with bits for screws.
  • Screws for fastening of the fender list (body work screws or screws with nut)
  • Sealant for screw holes (Sicaflex or similar)
  • Mix of Zalo (dish soap) and water.
  • Sharp knife or saw (to cut the fender list)
  • Optionally joint/end fittings.
  • Work gloves protecting against heat.



A mounting temperature of ca. 40°C will make the profile soft and easy to work with. A lower temperature will make the fender list harder, while a higher temperature wil make it softer.


If it is desirable to stretch the fender list, it needs to be heated to 80°C in a water bath or heat cabinet for approximately 45-60 minutes.


Groundwork on the boat


The mounting surface for the fender list must be equal or bigger than the mounting surface of the fender list.


Control that the mounting surface and the flange cutting edge are even. If there are screws under the fender list the need to be countersunk and holes must be filled, this to avoid unevenness to be visible on the fender list.


Mounting of main list

Use gloves if the fender list is heated to 40°C.

1. If the aluminium rail is used, predrill with holes for screws every 10-15 cm.


2. Pull the fender list around the boat and screw the list temporarily in place such that it does not fall off. Overshooting material is cut off.


3. If an aluminium rail is used:


Screw the aluminium rail at one end, and straighten the fender list by placing it in the centre slot of the fender list. If the aluminium rail is smaller than the slot in the profile, mount it against the upper side of the slot, and the fender list is straightened along this.


Screw holes in the fender list and boat side are pre drilled with the aluminium rail as template, and filled with sealants to prevent moisture penetration following completed mounting. If an aluminium rail is used, use it as template after it has been predrilled.


4. Fender list and aluminium rail is screwed on. Do NOT screw too tight, the aluminium rail will give in and make waves that will be visible on the surface of the fender list. NB! Remember to remove the temporary screws /fastening, and fill the holes with sealant.


Mounting of insert


1. Insert can only be used when the aluminium rail is not used.

2. The insert is heated to about 80°C in a boiler with water, the insert gets soft and can easily be stretched.

3. The insert is fastened at one end and stretched, as it is simultaneously guided into the slots lower edge. Bend the other side of the insert, and guide it into the upper part of the slot by suing for example a screwdriver. Then release the stretch of the insert. Work at small areas at the time (Max 30-50cm).

Insert not yet used should be kept in the boiler with hot water such that it remains soft.  

You can spray the list with a mix of Zalo (dish soap) and water during the work to ensure a neat mounting.


4.The insert is secured with screws at each end ensuring that the insert does not shrink back.


5. Spray the insert with soap mix and gently go over the insert with your thumb to even it out.




End or joint fittings are mounted if needed, and mounting is completed.




When mounting without aluminium rail: The fender list will feel looser in-between the screw fastenings, especially on warm days when the material is softer. We recommend to always mount with the aluminium rail.

If the aluminium rail is still not used, discs for the screws must be used, and screw distance must not exceed 10cm.

The fender list can be mounted with the support lip up if the boats construction warrants it.

If the support lip is in conflict with parts of the bodywork it must be cut off. This can be done with a sharp knife, with a heated list. For bigger orders, the fender list can be manufactured without the support list with no extra charge, if needed.  

When mounting the fender in a downward angle, for example towards diving platform or the stern of some newer boats, the aluminium rail cannot be used there.

Do not stretch the fender list more than necessary, due to the fender shrinking accordingly.


Maintenance and repair


  • Fender list needs to be cleaned and waxed every year.
  • While cleaning, only use paraffin based cleaning products. Boat/car care products are recommended.


Aceton and similar “strong” chemicals must not be used on the fender list surface. These depreciate the fender list finish and aging properties.

  • Faded surface can be refreshed by using pigmented boat wax.
  • Matte areas can be finely ground with wet sandpaper, and afterwards polished by scrubbing. (Hot air gun can be used for glossing, but it is recommended to get this done professionally by trained personnel, due to wrong temperature and procedure can damage the list.)
  • Small damages can be welded with a hot air gun and additive material to fill out the damage. The repaired site is ground even with the surrounding area and polished.
  • With larger damages the fender list needs to be disassembled to inspect and if needed repair the body work underneath. It is recommended to join the list with upset welding or joint fittings in stainless steel.
  • Fender lists that have become rough and brittle (cracks or breaks easily etc.), shows signs of aging. Nothing can be done about this, and a new fender list must be mounted.

By experience normal lifetime of a fender list in Nordic climates is 15-20 years, but this varies with regards to what strain and stress the fender list is exposed to.